Large pores and blackheads — why do they keep coming back?

Pores look large and blackheads keep coming back because there's a lot of sebum, and that sebum and dead skin plug the pore. Rather than squeezing or scrubbing, dissolve dead skin at low strength and protect the barrier with moisture. Among several factors, sebum output correlates most with pore size, and as skin loses firmness with age, pores look more stretched (Roh et al., 2006). A blackhead's dark color isn't dirt. It's commonly said to be oxidized sebum, but we found no primary evidence that oxidation is what makes it dark.

Why do pores look large?

Three things usually overlap. First, sebum: among several factors, sebum output correlated most with pore size (Roh et al., 2006). Second, dead skin: when keratin and sebum clump and plug the pore opening, that spot stands out more. Third, firmness: as age and accumulated UV reduce collagen, the support around pores weakens and they look more stretched. You can't erase or permanently close pores, but managing these three makes them stand out less. How much of that size was fixed from the start gets its own look in what actually decides pore size.

Are blackheads just dirt?

Many people think a blackhead is dirt. It isn't. A blackhead is an open comedone — sebum and keratin plugging a pore. Its contents are often said to darken as they oxidize in air. Researchers have measured oxidized squalene in the comedone lipids of people with acne (Saint-Léger et al., 1986), but we found no primary study showing oxidation causes the dark color. A blackhead's dark tip isn't grime you can wash off. That's why scrubbing hard won't remove it, and oil cleansing won't lift it all in one go, while forcing it out damages the pore wall, leaving marks or larger pores.

Why does squeezing and stripping make it worse?

Here's what many miss. Squeezing blackheads, ripping with pore strips, scrubbing, and stripping oil with harsh cleansers looks clean for a moment. But when that irritation breaks the barrier, skin is known to make more sebum to compensate for the dryness. Squeezing and ripping irritate the barrier and can make pores stand out more. For why sebum actually rises, see why oily skin can still be dehydrated; for how clogged pores and the barrier connect, see why a broken barrier leads to breakouts.

So how do you manage large pores and blackheads?

First, cleanse gently: with lukewarm water, lift only the oil, softly. Next, don't scrub dead skin off — dissolve it. Salicylic acid at low strength, now and then, is known to dissolve the sebum and keratin in pores and reduce plugging. Then refill the barrier with moisture, and use sun protection every day; it is known to slow the loss of firmness. Don't squeeze blackheads; instead of pore strips, empty them slowly with low-strength exfoliation.

In short: take irritation away rather than squeezing

Read pores and blackheads as proof of being dirty, and you miss the point. They're the natural buildup of sebum and dead skin. Among several factors, sebum output tracked most closely with pore size (Roh et al., 2006). Squeezing and stripping pile on irritation and can make pores stand out more. Don't squeeze pores or blackheads; manage them slowly with low-strength salicylic acid, moisturizer and sun protection. It's a way of helping skin settle back into its own grain.

One step today

• Don't squeeze blackheads with fingers or tools; instead of pore strips and scrubs, use low-strength salicylic acid now and then. No trial has shown this beats squeezing. If it stings or reddens, use it less often. If a red, swollen or painful lump appears, see a dermatologist.
• After cleansing, refill the barrier with moisture. A dry barrier is said to push skin to make more sebum, but no trial has tested it. Check whether tightness after cleansing eases. If small bumps increase after moisturizing, switch to a lighter texture.
• Use sun protection by day. No trial has tested whether it keeps pores looking less stretched. Compare photos taken in the same light, months apart. If a spot near the pores is new or keeps changing shape, see a dermatologist.